It seems like no matter how I think about this I do not know what to do with the white wire in the downstairs switch box. The switch box on the second floor has power coming in and a cable going out to the lights. The downstairs switch only has a switch and a three wire cable inside it. MY scenario is backwards in that the cable going to the lights comes out of what I called switch box 1 above. A two wire cable leaves switch box 2 and goes to the light. Switch box 2 receives the three wire cable and also the black goes to switch 2 and the red goes to switch 2. A three wire cable leaves switch box 1 with the black connecting to the switch and the red connecting to the switch. In switch 1 box the power in black wire goes to the black nut on the switch, and the power in white goes out through switch box 2 and to the light. According to a book I use the power comes into what I will call switch 1. If any particular outlet doesn’t seem to be providing power, not only should you check the circuit breakers, but also check any GFCI outlets with push buttons in the area.I am confused about how to wire a three way switch set up. Thus, it is not possible to tell if a receptacle is GFCI protected or not by just looking at it. Additional outlets can be protected downstream of the local outlet type with push buttons by wiring the added outlets to the LOAD side of the local GFCI device. GFCI protection can be provided either at the outlet by the now familiar outlet with the test and reset buttons, or at the distribution panel by way of a GFCI circuit breaker, which protects all outlets on the circuit it controls. You should question your local building authority for the latest, complete requirements. Now they seem to be required nearly everywhere. They were initially only required around pool areas in the ’70s. The list of areas requiring GFCI protection has increased with every code revision. Local building authorities may have additional requirements. The National Electric Code specifies many such areas in residential dwelling units, such as, but not limited to: Bathrooms Garages and accessory buildings All exterior receptacles Crawl spaces Unfinished basements Kitchens Laundry, Utility, Wet Bar Sink Areas and Boathouses. GFCI protection should be provided anywhere there is a receptacle installed in an area subject to moisture, as the presence of moisture greatly increases the danger of accidental shock. There are two types of GFCI: one for personnel (the one you commonly hear about extremely sensitive) and one that is less sensitive… and that there is also something called an AFCI breaker, which opens the circuit if arcs caused by loose connections are detected. To protect us in this situation, the device very quickly cuts off the power supply to the leaking device, within 20-30 milliseconds, greatly reducing any possible human tissue damage from errant current. If there’s the slightest difference in current, on the order of a few milliamps, then there is current leaking out somewhere, possibly through somebody’s body. It works by comparing the input current on the hot side to the output current on the neutral side. A GFI, or GFCI – Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter device protects us from receiving electric shocks from faults in the electrical devices we use in our home.
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